{"id":13112,"date":"2019-10-17T22:11:30","date_gmt":"2019-10-17T20:11:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/skynific.com\/portfolio-items\/langzeitaufnahmen\/"},"modified":"2019-10-24T23:04:16","modified_gmt":"2019-10-24T21:04:16","slug":"langzeitaufnahmen","status":"publish","type":"avada_portfolio","link":"https:\/\/skynific.com\/en\/portfolio-items\/langzeitaufnahmen\/","title":{"rendered":"Long-Time Exposure Overview"},"content":{"rendered":"

Long-Time Exposure<\/h2>\n<\/div>

A long-time exposure is when an image is exposed for several seconds. There is no fixed limit from when exposure will count as a long time exposure. Subjectively, I would say upwards from one second. Of course, there is no upper limit. This type of photography is primarily used in landscape photography<\/a>.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>

Important Basic Settings<\/b><\/p>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>

Aperture<\/h2>\n<\/div>
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\"aperture<\/span><\/div>
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The optimal aperture is about:<\/p>\n

f4 – f16<\/h3>\n

I\u2019m convinced that simply try it out.<\/p>\n

Tip:<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

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If you also want to make long exposures during the day, you should use ND filters.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>

ISO<\/h2>\n<\/div>
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\"iso<\/span><\/div>
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The ISO value describes the light sensitivity of the image sensor. Best is a value of :<\/p>\n

ISO 100<\/h3>\n

Due to the environment and the comparatively long exposure time when photographing this type of image, a low ISO value is preferable. This reduces the later noise on the picture but also increases the exposure time. Another advantage is that the dynamic range of your camera increases as the ISO value decreases.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>

Shutter Speed<\/h2>\n<\/div>
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\"timer-icon\"<\/span><\/div>
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In the field of long-time photography, there are no recommended shutter speeds, so experimenting is the order of the day. Most SLR cameras, system cameras, and higher quality compact cameras allow up to 30 seconds recording time.<\/p>\n

Tip:<\/b><\/i><\/p>\n

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Switch your exposure time to the “Bulb” mode to be able to react better and faster to the individual situation. As soon as you press the button of your remote shutter release, the exposure starts and continues until you rerelease it.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>

Further Adjustments<\/b><\/p>\n

I usually shoot long exposures in manual mode, because here all degrees of freedom are given to you. So you can influence all variables according to your wishes and correct them quickly.<\/p>\n

I take the pictures in RAW format to get the best picture quality and to be able to adjust my white balance in post-processing.<\/p>\n

A particular difficulty at night is focusing. Especially in almost total darkness, it’s impossible to find the right focus point, so it’s important to set the focus manually. This is also why it is advantageous to focus manually during the day because if you use ND filters, the autofocus won’t work properly anymore.<\/p>\n

Due to the long-time exposure, it is important to have a stable stand, because even minimal wobbles can influence the end result to a maximum. Therefore a safe and stable tripod is not to be renounced. Moreover, the camera does not know that it is firmly fixed, and the image stabilization could still try to compensate for something that does not exist. Therefore the image stabilization should also be switched off.<\/p>\n

After all, settings have been made, it is not easy to give tips on image composition, because everyone has their own ideas about what should be in the image. In general, I would say: Less is more. Try to only include elements in the picture that should be part of it and perhaps have a relationship with your central motif.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>

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Special Features<\/h2>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>

Make Places Deserted<\/strong><\/p>\n

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At places in which many tourists are present, it is possible to make the place empty with a long exposure. This requires long exposure times from 10 minutes upwards<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>

Traces of Light & StarTrails<\/b><\/p>\n

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I’m sure you’ve seen this picture with the light trails of cars. While you are making an exposure, the car moves through your image and draws its tracks with the headlights. If you take this approach further, you’ll come to light painting<\/a>.<\/p>\n

A special type of long-time exposure is photographing the night sky. I have already described this here<\/a> before.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>

Smoothing Water & Clouds<\/strong><\/p>\n

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Long time exposure can be used to simplify an image. In a 60 seconds exposure, you have the movement of the clouds on the picture. This can be an interesting effect, but it should also fit the expression of the image.<\/p>\n

This can also be used with water. Sea and rivers often show many details that lead the attention away from essential elements in the picture. By using a long time exposure a simplification<\/strong> and a surreal effect <\/strong>can be achieved.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>

Accessories<\/strong><\/p>\n

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ND Filter \/ Gray Filter<\/strong><\/p>\n

If you want to make a long exposure in normal light during the day, you need the right filters. If you make a long exposure without a filter in the midday sun, the resulting image is simply white because too much light falls on the sensor. So you have to make sure that less light reaches the sensor.<\/p>\n

For long exposure you need ND filters, also called gray filters. These block a large part of the incident light like sunglasses and ensure that you don’t take an overexposed picture even at exposure times of several minutes.<\/p>\n<\/div>

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POL-Filter<\/strong><\/p>\n

Ein Polfilter wird in der Fotografie immer dann eingesetzt, wenn man Reflexionen entfernen will. The following scenarios are common:<\/p>\n